Good morning from Hicksville, Sth East QLD ......

Please join our community to continue reading

Forgot your password?
Don't have an account? Register now

Topgun

Blooming
User ID
2901
Looking good. If you do give them a light feed and the leaves green up a bit then you know that it is a deficiency rather than the plants winding down. It looks too early for them to be going this yellow. I would risk another feed as the deficiency may have slowed them down a bit if that is what it is. It looks to me like what Porky said they are searching for Nitrogen in their own leaves to fuel growth.
 

Sun Ra

Baked
Community Member
User ID
2854
Weekly update:
8 weeks now since flip. Chiquita Banana fems from WSE. Starting to bulk up a bit. Flowers not that big but lots of them and they are getting very hard and dense. Can't seem to do much about the yellowing of leaves. It's worse in the 2 x 3 gallon pots in the centre. Still feeding doesn't seem to have much effect. I'm thinking 2 weeks to go. Any opinions on that ?

IMG_1142.JPGIMG_1143.JPGIMG_1144.JPGIMG_1145.JPGIMG_1146.JPGIMG_1147.JPGIMG_1148.JPGIMG_1150.JPGIMG_1151.JPGIMG_1152.JPGIMG_1153.JPGIMG_1154.JPG
 

durban kid

Blooming
User ID
1390
what are you feeding them and i agree with the sedge 3 ish weeks not a lot of red hairs
you may even do a sample test of a smaller head quick dry it and see how it works for you
you might like the effect you get now and chop one too see the difference you will get in 2 to three weeks time but all over they are looking grand
 

itchybro

Sultan Of Soil
User ID
31
in soil , yellowing is almost always water issues , often because pots are too small
inconsistent water causes PH problems & in turn nutrient lockouts

the biggest problem though is loss &/or charge of biology , the little critters in the soil that feed & protect your plant will die , go dormant or POQ

the loss of chlorophyll in leaves will play havoc with photosynthesis causing plants to take forever to finish & the longer they take to finish without the soil biology in place to protect the plant the more susceptible to pest & pathogen attack

there is no quick fix for this although over watered pots can be left to dry out but with over watering you've already promoted the pathogenic organisms from the lack of air in the media so damage can already be done

for under watered pots in a peat based media the top soil can be hard & dry & usually pulls in from the side of the pot or shrinks because the peat has become hydrophobic making it hard for the media to except water

some ways people have attempted to fix under watering especially in fabric pots is to transplant the complete fabric pot into a bigger fabric pot with more of the same fresh soil , not always done because like you it's always late in the game & growers can't justify the expense

the other is to water really really slowly , the idea here is to put a very small amount of water on the dry soil surface which should pool & sit trying to re hydrate the peat , if you put too much water on the surface the weight of the water will just run through the pot to the bottom & re hydrate nothing along the way , once the surface water has disappeared leave it for 15 / 20 min then repeat

keep going until you get minimal runoff , keeping in mind if you put too much water on the surface it will run through the pot & show runoff , start by feeling the weight of the pot , it should feel lite if it's been under watered , what you want to feel is weight without runoff so you know the water is staying in the pot & re hydrating the media

yellow leaves will never recover back to green so what your looking at is the green leaves staying green to know your solving the problem but this late in the game you'll run out of leaves before the plant gets to finishing in most cases is my guess & you'll be forced to harvest early

shit happens mate we've all been there , just move on to the next grow
 

Sun Ra

Baked
Community Member
User ID
2854
in soil , yellowing is almost always water issues , often because pots are too small
inconsistent water causes PH problems & in turn nutrient lockouts

the biggest problem though is loss &/or charge of biology , the little critters in the soil that feed & protect your plant will die , go dormant or POQ

the loss of chlorophyll in leaves will play havoc with photosynthesis causing plants to take forever to finish & the longer they take to finish without the soil biology in place to protect the plant the more susceptible to pest & pathogen attack

there is no quick fix for this although over watered pots can be left to dry out but with over watering you've already promoted the pathogenic organisms from the lack of air in the media so damage can already be done

for under watered pots in a peat based media the top soil can be hard & dry & usually pulls in from the side of the pot or shrinks because the peat has become hydrophobic making it hard for the media to except water

some ways people have attempted to fix under watering especially in fabric pots is to transplant the complete fabric pot into a bigger fabric pot with more of the same fresh soil , not always done because like you it's always late in the game & growers can't justify the expense

the other is to water really really slowly , the idea here is to put a very small amount of water on the dry soil surface which should pool & sit trying to re hydrate the peat , if you put too much water on the surface the weight of the water will just run through the pot to the bottom & re hydrate nothing along the way , once the surface water has disappeared leave it for 15 / 20 min then repeat

keep going until you get minimal runoff , keeping in mind if you put too much water on the surface it will run through the pot & show runoff , start by feeling the weight of the pot , it should feel lite if it's been under watered , what you want to feel is weight without runoff so you know the water is staying in the pot & re hydrating the media

yellow leaves will never recover back to green so what your looking at is the green leaves staying green to know your solving the problem but this late in the game you'll run out of leaves before the plant gets to finishing in most cases is my guess & you'll be forced to harvest early

shit happens mate we've all been there , just move on to the next grow
Thanks for that Itchybro,

Pretty much agree with everything you said. I do water very slowly. If anything I think I have probably under watered these.
Yesterday I gave them a big water to see what that would do. They look OK this morning. Only one plant is really badly effected by the yellowing. Front centre - in the smaller 3 gal pot. The ones in the larger 5 gals are much better. Given I'm only a few weeks away, I'm just hoping I can nurse them through without chopping too early. Also agree that shit happens.
 

Sun Ra

Baked
Community Member
User ID
2854
Weekly update:
9 weeks now since flip. Chiquita Banana fems from WSE. More branches starting to keel over and needing support.
Unfortunately the loupe I ordered online is yet to arrive. Hoping it does this week. Unfortunately running out of time
with these as I need them dried and cured and in jars before I head to Melb mid Feb. Looking to chop in a week or so.

IMG_1174.JPGIMG_1175.JPGIMG_1176.JPGIMG_1177.JPGIMG_1178.JPGIMG_1179.JPGIMG_1180.JPGIMG_1181.JPG
 

Porky

The Dwarf Hermie King
User ID
17
Fucking nice fish and I'm definitely no fisherman!!
What's the weight of something that size?
Although ya might want to delete ya face from the pics mate considering its in ya grow thread 1 post below ya plants!! 🤣
 

BigRobbo

Blooming
Community Member
User ID
1433
Fk yeah! Thats a mad barra Ra mate.. Was it a lure capture or bait/livey? They are a pretty rare capture down my way, Im very envious.. Havnt caught a barra in donkeys years since I last visited mossman the little cane town north of cairns.. Im a non practicing fishaholic at the moment though due to a fkd back but Id struggle thru the pain if there were barra on offer thats for sure haha..
 
Top Bottom