Getting Started

[GreenerPastures]

This makes total sense. Perhaps I just keep the plants under light and gradually decrease the hours until their are ready to be moved outside permanently and then they should be ready for the day/ night cycle. I’m already hooked mate! Just love learning about it! They are autos too

 

[VinDeezle]

If they are all autos (if I'm reading that right) you'll probably be 3/4 through flower by the time they go outside as kneeko mentioned...usually they'll sex themselves and move into flower anywhere from week three-five on average.

Might be a plan to finish the autos inside and start some photos outdoors mid October.

 

[itchybro]

If they are all autos (if I'm reading that right) you'll probably be 3/4 through flower by the time they go outside as kneeko mentioned...usually they'll sex themselves and move into flower anywhere from week three-five on average.

Might be a plan to finish the autos inside and start some photos outdoors mid October.

" I’m growing 6 plants (2x OG Kush, 2x AK-47, 2x Auto Blue Dream) "

 

[VinDeezle]

" I’m growing 6 plants (2x OG Kush, 2x AK-47, 2x Auto Blue Dream) "

Just confused at the "they are autos too" in the post after so I thought I'd try clarify.

 

[itchybro]

@itchybro would love an explanation mate, I want to get it right from the beginning

ok , i'm talking about the photo period plants not your 2 auto's = they are different

photo period plants require days to be getting longer , as they are right now outdoors in australia to grow (get bigger)
they then need days to start getting shorter for the plant to stop growth & move to making flowers / buds

it's that change from longer days to shorter days indoor growers utilize with there lighting system to mimic growing or flowering

any larger jump from longer light hours like 15 hours your doing indoor to 13 hours outdoor which is the amount of light hours you get at the start of october could & probably would trigger the plant to start bud production ( plant age dependent )

if this was to happen ( triggering flower ) once you moved outdoor the plant would continue to flower outdoor for a while before it realized the day lengths are increasing not decreasing as it would expect to be happening during flowering or bud production
so it would revert back to growing before being triggered again to flower once the days started to shorten
better for plant health to avoid this

i'd suggest if your plants are under 15 hours of lights on indoor your best to move them outdoor when the natural day light is around the same amount , which in this case is the start of december , they will grow through december & january & start flowering some time in feb

there is lots of nuance here that all the guys here could get into but imo this is the basics
also imo many things can stress a plant & all of them you want to try & avoid although not always possible

 

[VinDeezle]

I think we need clarification...the top post/ re quote on this page has"they are autos too" added to the bottom which I think was in reply to kneeko asking if they were all autos. That has me thinking they are all autos now.

Before it gets convoluted it's better to get that clarified haha.

 

[Porky]

This thread is hilarious!!
I love it when blokes who have never grown try to start growing in the most difficult ways!

 

[Harry bootlace]

This makes total sense. Perhaps I just keep the plants under light and gradually decrease the hours until their are ready to be moved outside permanently and then they should be ready for the day/ night cycle. I’m already hooked mate! Just love learning about it!

I’ve tried this. Didn’t work.

Went into flower and revegged.

Next year I’ll do again but differently.
( I’m in the middle of moving and won’t be set up indoors soon enough this season)

I’ll do 13hrs lights on from the start and take outside when there’s 13+ hours good light outside.

I understand your reasoning but one thing to note. Starting a plant in spring you can still get monsters with no indoor head start.
In fact your more likely imho to get knbsgers this way than if they do flower early and then Reveg as days get longer.

As for pests. Outdoors a healthy diverse garden and healthy plants, nature does most of the work for you. Indoors pests can take over but outside if your garden is good you have lots of little friends to help you out and also a healthy plant has natural defences.

You’ll do ok. Ask away and keep a diary or thread here the experts can chime in on any issues and might spot something g you didn’t notice.

All the best and welcome.

 

[Harry bootlace]

I think we need clarification...the top post/ re quote on this page has"they are autos too" added to the bottom which I think was in reply to kneeko asking if they were all autos. That has me thinking they are all autos now.

Before it gets convoluted it's better to get that clarified haha.

Oh I missed that.
If they are autos
Keep em inside and get some photoperiods before spring. Skip indoor start or just for a few weeks until they are ready to go into their forever spot ( whether in ground or pots ).

Simple is best when starting.

 

[Kneeko]

Growweedeasy.com is a great spot where I learnt the basics.
No matter what fancy plans you might have..
Unless you fully understand the "why" of the basics.. grows can struggle.
Keeping it simple is where success is had... and do a journal here somewhere so we can help trouble shoot an isses you might have...

I also recall you saying 2000 watts...
Anything over 900umols is a waste..
Its easy to give them TOO much light, water, nutes etc..

Look up DLI (Daily light Integral)?
Light strentgh and duration first
Right temps 2nd
and right humidity 3rd..
Right PH is major too....

Dont try ro reinvent the wheel...
Then it will only be water/ feeding practice to nail down...

 

[Goonie Goat]

I also recall you saying 2000 watts...

Think the actual draw power they mean would be 200-240w if they have a mars/vipa/spider light. Stupid how some vendors still name lights like that though . Hopefully it isn't a POS like this though, would be lucky to pull 100w.

'2000w 5x5 coverage' ..
Courtney Love's sunnies?

 

[GreenerPastures]

Growweedeasy.com is a great spot where I learnt the basics.
No matter what fancy plans you might have..
Unless you fully understand the "why" of the basics.. grows can struggle.
Keeping it simple is where success is had... and do a journal here somewhere so we can help trouble shoot an isses you might have...

I also recall you saying 2000 watts...
Anything over 900umols is a waste..
Its easy to give them TOO much light, water, nutes etc..

Look up DLI (Daily light Integral)?
Light strentgh and duration first
Right temps 2nd
and right humidity 3rd..
Right PH is major too....

Dont try ro reinvent the wheel...
Then it will only be water/ feeding practice to nail down...

This is super helpful mate. Roger that on the light wattage. I’ll look for something around 1000w if I’m understanding correctly? I’ll consult the DLI and growweedeasy sight

 

[Goonie Goat]

This is super helpful mate. Roger that on the light wattage. I’ll look for something around 1000w if I’m understanding correctly? I’ll consult the DLI and growweedeasy sight

Look at the specs of the light and find the 'Actual Power Draw/Watts',
Should be able to veg 6 plants under a 480w (in a 1.2×1.2m tent) easily, if you plan on flowering it's probably a good idea to go 600w.

 

[Kneeko]

What size space will you be growing in..?
And what equipment do you have so far in any ?

 

[GreenerPastures]

What size space will you be growing in..?
And what equipment do you have so far in any ?

So far;

Seeds
Live Soil
6 black mesh pots 30cm diameter 2G
Distilled water
Fan with temp/ humidity and purifier control
Grow light 1000W TBC - any suggestions?
Stand for plants
Spray bottle - Neem

 

[GreenerPastures]

So far;

Seeds
Live Soil
6 black mesh pots 30cm diameter 2G
Distilled water
Fan with temp/ humidity and purifier control
Grow light 1000W TBC - any suggestions?
Stand for plants
Spray bottle - Neem

1.5M grow tent in garage

 

[Kneeko]

Get the "Photone" app...
It will give you a rough idea as to how much light to give them...
Seedlings from 300, up to 900 ppfd for flowering..

Get a PH pen.. Blue lab or HM 80 or the like....
Some up and down to tune PH of water or nutes.
Ph for watering or feeding soil needs to be 6-7.
If using coco Coir 5.8-6.2

Temps from 20-26c
Humidity about 60 to start...

And some fine grade DE... (Diamotatous earth)
You will be needing that at some point for pests...

1.5 x 1.5 W x D ?

O.... and a small oil fin heater to stop nightie temps getting below 18c...
Hook it up to an Inkbird regulator to maintain exact temps....
They also have a cooling outlet plug to activate a exhaust fan if temps get too high...

And a small fan to circulate air.... so plants are very gentley moving....

 

[GreenerPastures]

Thanks @Kneeko ill implement this and journal it for progress

 

[Indy]

Think the actual draw power they mean would be 200-240w if they have a mars/vipa/spider light. Stupid how some vendors still name lights like that though . Hopefully it isn't a POS like this though, would be lucky to pull 100w.
View attachment 49903
'2000w 5x5 coverage' ..
Courtney Love's sunnies?

At least they'll look good while one figures out why they made such a dumbarse purchase.

 

[Anaken Moonwalk]

Hey peeps, sorry to jump in here with my own question but it is kinda topical. I'm attempting to get a second season in this year with a similar approach to GreenerPastures only I'm wanting the transition outdoors to cause flowering and then hoping they'll finish off before reveg.

They germinated this week and they'll spend maybe 1 and a half to 2 months indoors at 18/6, then I'll put them in the ground outdoors and cross the fingers. I think the day length will be at about 12.5 hours when they go outdoors. it'll be interesting to see if they finish off. Maybe the chances are low??

If I was on top of things I would've started earlier in the year to try and reduce the chances of reveg.

Anyone else managed to get 2 seasons out of a year in Aus using a similar strategy?