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It was long stringy white stuff almost cobweb looking ?That's mycelium. Visible web of fungal hyphae and actinomycetes breaking down nutrients in the organic matter, making plant available. You scraped off the good stuff.
It was long stringy white stuff almost cobweb looking ?That's mycelium. Visible web of fungal hyphae and actinomycetes breaking down nutrients in the organic matter, making plant available. You scraped off the good stuff.
That's a good sign. Cm layers of Neem meal though is crazy though, It's like 5% N so U could end up with an N toxicity as well at that rate.It was long stringy white stuff almost cobweb looking ?
Pests don't build a resistance against predatory insects/biocontrols though.Also should rotate pesticides used, regardless of organic or not.
Yeh that's true., but other biological controls like BTI should be rotated.Pests don't build a resistance against predatory insects/biocontrols though.
Yea they can which is why you should use a variety and rotate.Pests don't build a resistance against predatory insects/biocontrols though.
How do they build up a resistance to somthing eating them is this posibleYea they can which is why you should use a variety and rotate.
Yeah moisture levels are key I have zero problems in my flower tent because I'm either DWC or like current grow is hempy pots with pvc tube I water down so the top 100mm of coco is pretty much bone dry my main problem is they love beer the cunts and my kegorator is in the next room constantly attracting themi reckon fungus gnats are a sign that something is slightly out of wack. i've had my fair share and each time it was because either my watering or my vpd was not where it should be for the stages of the plant. couple of things which i have found helps ...
itchy's favourite, but a goldie - soil moisture. the solution for me was a blumat moisture reader to get a better idea of what was occurring.
vpd - if the temperature and humidity can be controlled within vpd recommendations at different stages of a plant's cycle, the plant has a very good chance of being healthy and then there is little chance for bugs and other nasties to set in.
hypoaspis - love these things. when a soil is less than two years old, i will make sure to use them before every new planting. you can get them in smaller and cheaper quantities from bioworksonline.
neem and kelp meal tea - i soak some neem and kelp meal in water for 24 hrs and water twice each plant cycle.
good quality worm castings - like to topdress with at least 1 inch of good castings twice every cycle
cover crops - using them between each cycle maintains good moisture levels, provides nutrients and keeps all the microorganisms happy
timings - insects seem to get more active at certain times in a moon cycle ... usually heading towards full moon. leading up to these times, it's good to to take a bit of extra care, to make sure that the soil stays at a good moisture level. too dry and then too wet, will cause problems.
other methods that i haven't tried, but might be worth having a crack at ... Biodynamic peppers. this is some archaic bad arse shit ... lol ... where they basically get the bugs, burn them and use the ash over the soil or in a spray.
all this stuff is preventative and is good for the future (the hypoaspis seem to get rid of fungus gnats in about 3-4 weeks from introduction to soil). if you are in in the middle of an infestation, the only thing i've found to make an impact is to cover the whole pot surface with a mesh and secure it in such a way that no bug can get out. aircom filter mesh is probably the best bet, but i guess that geotextile mesh would also do the job.
this is difficult with a soft fabric pot, but can work with a hard plastic or wood pot. you will need to have a slit in the mesh, so it can slide around the trunk and need a way to fix the mesh to the outside of the pot and to the trunk. a little slack is also needed, so that you can still water through the mesh, without having water go everywhere.
it's not ideal and a royal pain in the arse, but it can do the job for 3-4 weeks while flowering, so you don't end up smoking more bugs than flower.
One of the main reasons commercial growers turn to biocontrols is because increasing pesticide resistance.Yea they can which is why you should use a variety and rotate.
The same way anything builds a resistance to something. It evolves to protect it self.How do they build up a resistance to somthing eating them is this posible
It's definitely good practice to release 2 or 3 predator mites species for thrips or spider mites. Pests don't develop resistance to these predators though over time like they do to chemical pesticides. Predator mites are used in an IPM program usually with different pesticides to reduce the pesticide resistance problemsThe same way anything builds a resistance to something. It evolves to protect it self.
def not possibleHow do they build up a resistance to somthing eating them is this posible
Hypoaspis is an awesome part of the IPM strategy as well. You can even blend them with a soil mix if it's in small batches that don't heat up too muchA pest can of course evolve defenses against predators, parasites, etc. However, those biological controls are evolving at the same time. A predator always needs to eat! Offensive advances, biological or technological, are generally at the forefront and defense plays catch up.
I just received some GNatural today and will give it a try soon. My gnats aren't out of control, but it seems like a good IPM tool to prevent a big out break.
That's mycelium. Visible web of fungal hyphae and actinomycetes breaking down nutrients in the organic matter, making plant available. You scraped off the good stuff.
It was long stringy white stuff almost cobweb looking ?