Does anyone calculate NPKg/L for soil?

[itchybro]

yeah fare enogh

 

[Beil]

Finally got round to soaking the wheat grain.
No idea how much, just poured a load into an old fishing bucket .
I'll use all this in the garden anyways and see how drying some goes.

 

[itchybro]

ok cool
you planing on changing the water ? , soak over night then remove old water & add fresh , do the same once a day , some change water every 12hrs , i reckon once a day is fine
seed weight should double once seed cracks , should be able to work weight back from there
got your blender of seeds ready

 

[Beil]

ok cool
you planing on changing the water ? , soak over night then remove old water & add fresh , do the same once a day , some change water every 12hrs , i reckon once a day is fine
seed weight should double once seed cracks , should be able to work weight back from there
got your blender of seeds ready

No, I was just going to soak over night, empty water and then keep them moist but not soaking in a black storage tub with carpet over the top to sprout. (( What's the point in keeping them submerged, wouldn't they suffocate (Unless you're using the water?))
Allow to sprout until the root is 5-10mm. Then blend some and dry some.
I'm just about to post a thread on this in non canna gardening for the growing experiment to get the ins and outs and suggestions if we want to take this over there?

 

[itchybro]

it's been a while since i made a seed sprout tea because i always use the malted barley so no need to sprout seeds
your questions made me go " yeah why am i saying this " so i just went & had a memory refresh , this is it below

• 56 Grams Barley Seed (2 Ounces)
• Soak for 8 hours with Clean Water
• Should now weigh minimum 84 Grams (If not soak longer)
• Sprout seeds until tail is as long as the seed or about 1-2 days.
• Blend in a food blender or whatever you have with a little but of water to help it blend.
• Add this to 5 gallons water and you have one of the worlds most nutritious Plant Enzyme Teas available for PENNIES.

This tutorial will be for our low cost barley as there are a few tricks that will help make the process much easier. The Medium and Premium Barley are so clean that they are slightly easier to use.
Step #1: I like to soak the barley in water that has a little re-hydrated kelp in it.

Here is the seed soaking and you'll notice that many of the seeds will float.

Wait 8 hours and then tap the seeds so they sink... then scoop all the junk off the top. The goal here is to have as only seeds left to sprout and none of the plant material and seed hulls.

You can skim all that off or just pour it off into the sink and most of the seeds we want will stay in the bottom if done carefully. When you are done, they will look clean like this:

Then you can rinse them well to make sure they are ready to sprout, I just do this in a metal strainer.

Then you can sprout them in your typical fashion.

Most will use the Jar Method. I really like the Hemp Bag method or the Sprouting tray method.

Here is the same tray 24 hours later:

IMPORTANT: RISE THE SEEDS MORNING AND NIGHT AT LEAST.

And the Next Day:

You can see the seeds get all soapy looking while rinsing:

Here is the same tray after 3 days of rinsing morning and night... it only takes a few seconds

Now blend this up and add it to your 5 gallon bucket of water and pour into the soil

 

[Beil]

Thought those photos looked familiar, same results come up when searching lol.
It doesn't say why to rinse morning and night, all I can figure is to avoid any mould .
With malting for brewing I think I remember having to agitate them, but I think that was for a consistent germination rate, no rinsing though.

 

[itchybro]

as you would have seen on the buildasoil blog post this idea of seed sprout teas was started by clackamas coot
if you search his name & seed sprout teas with it you should find a bit of stuff like an interview on kiss organics youtube channle ,

on the grasscity forum he go's under the name AgnesDawgz in fact you might like to read the first post in this thread https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/no-till-gardening-revisited.1400505/ , AgnesDawgz turns up about half way down the first page

 

[itchybro]

come to think of it i'm not sure it was coots idea
there was another guy call gil carandang who had a website called " unconventional farmer "

 

[Beil]

as you would have seen on the buildasoil blog post this idea of seed sprout teas was started by clackamas coot
if you search his name & seed sprout teas with it you should find a bit of stuff like an interview on kiss organics youtube channle ,

on the grasscity forum he go's under the name AgnesDawgz in fact you might like to read the first post in this thread https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/no-till-gardening-revisited.1400505/ , AgnesDawgz turns up about half way down the first page

Damn, that thread is 1146 pages, I think the most I've done when going down the rabbit hole with brewing beer was about 120, likewise that was a thread about one specific aspect (the yeast(s) used in a specific beer).
I'll read the first post properly and maybe skip the rest haha.

 

[itchybro]

that thread wasn't that big when i came across it but i can help there , one of the members of that forum has made another thread with all the important stuff here https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/all-organic-recipes-and-notes-compilation.1421024/

someone has put the unconventional farmer site back up https://www.unconventionalfarmsupply.com/unconventional-farmer-links scroll down to the bottom where he shows lots of diy brew gardening stuff , very cool stuff
when i first got into this kind of living soil growing this was one of the first sites i came across or was directed too

 

[frankreynolds]

The colloquial “PGR” slang/tag doesn’t really refer to cytokinins / triacontanol etc. it’s mostly used to refer to growth regulators like chlormequat chloride, paclobutrazol etc. otherwise majority of plant products including those with kelp would have to be labeled as pgr’s

While it is technically correct, to use the pgr misnomer to refer to these naturally occurring hormones like gibberilc acid/ triacontanol etc, is disingenuous.

Personally I think as a community we should refer to natural plant growth regulators as simply growth regulators or growth hormones or some other short hand so as to avoid confusion and differentiate them from harmful growth regulators.

If I told people I’m using pgr’s in my grow they’d think I’m mad, stupid , greedy or some combination of all 3. But if I tell people I’m using kelp, fulvic and some bacillus it paints an entirely different picture.

I mean Plant Growth Regulators is an all encompassing umbrella that these hormones and chemicals fall under regardless of where there sourced.

I think the original confusion comes from the fact that there are sub categories called Plant Growth Retardents (may have changed since I was at uni ) using the same acronym, which has chemicals like paclo in there.

Just shows people lack of knowledge, the rooting gels we use containing auxins are plant growth regulators, seaweed extract is a plant growth regulator. etc.etc.

As a side note, why are people just worried about cadmium? If you use organic chicken sourced fertillizer care for things like lead too.

 

[frankreynolds]

Also to answer your original question there would be a way to work out how much NPK per kilo of fertillizer your adding to the soil.

I know soil labs can work with you to reccomend amounts off fertillizer after they test your soil to hit certain targets.

 

[R3za92]

I mean Plant Growth Regulators is an all encompassing umbrella that these hormones and chemicals fall under regardless of where there sourced.

I think the original confusion comes from the fact that there are sub categories called Plant Growth Retardents (may have changed since I was at uni ) using the same acronym, which has chemicals like paclo in there.

Just shows people lack of knowledge, the rooting gels we use containing auxins are plant growth regulators, seaweed extract is a plant growth regulator. etc.etc.

As a side note, why are people just worried about cadmium? If you use organic chicken sourced fertillizer care for things like lead too.

Yeah I’m just pointing out that when people say fuck pgr bud they don’t actually care if you used seaweed extract etc.

TLDR people are dumb.

 

[Hudo]

Can get feed barley for $15/25kg near me. Heaps cheap to just malt it yourself. Could probably just spread it out in the sun for a day and dry off to store to use when needed though? Enzyme's inside the grain so UV shouldn't nuke them
Coopers pale (pilsner) malt is about the cheapest in Aus ranging from $50-60/25kg when buying a sack from LHBS.

Going to do some of the wheat this weekend, few kg, blend and throw round the garden

ive made my own for brewing beer. to kill it and dry it I used to put it in my egg bbq on low and slow in a big tray and turn it over every half hour

 

[Beil]

Bit of a drunken tl/dr update on my forgage into labelling of fertiliser.
I emailed Richgro (months ago now) to suss their cadmium in super phosphate and their organic 'guano' stuff as this was really the main contender for looking for supplemtary Phosphorus in my mix, because... Bunnings...

Got this back:
I have queried this with our Laboratory Manager and she has come back with the following information: - Richgro Super Phosphate product is supplied to us from Approved supplier and it’s manufactured from Rock phosphate, but we do not have their data for Cadmium content in the product (they only sent test results for Phosphorus, Sulphur and Calcium). - For Richgro Organic Phosphorus product, Guano Gold based natural organic phosphorus, we have received data on Cadmium level from our approved supplier (it can vary slightly in every new batch): Cadmium (Cd) = 2.08 mg/kg However, there is no requirement from Fertiliser regulations to test this product for Cadmium content so we only have data from our suppliers if they test it. "

(The last bit above was a mis-truth...)

I then emailed the fertilizer Australia (a national organisation for the consistent labelling of fertiliser) to question why Richgro don't adhere to labelling requirements per state or the Fertilizer Description and Labelling code of practice (CoP) of which Richgro were a member, WA where theyre based don't need to label l, but basically the rest of the states do and the guidelines of the association require it.

Long story short, but not that short now I'm reading the fucking wall of text, but the following responses were gained:
"The CoP also requires the concentration of the impurity to be stated on the label if it exceeds a trigger concentration and appropriate warnings."
"You might be interested to know that Richgro have decided amend the label information on the packaging of their superphosphate product so it complies with the Fertilizer Description and Labelling code of practice. "



Anyways, food for thought for the people who really can only be bothered to get their shit from bunnos...
And there really is no regulation for the labelling of fertiliser in Australia... It took me being me to bring this to any kind of regulatory bodies notice.

Meh, cheers. *Drinks stout*

https://fertilizer.org.au/Portals/0/Documents/COPs/National%20Code%20of%20Practice%20for%20Fertilizer%20Description%20and%20Labelling.pdf?ver=2017-06-23-114549-300

 

[itchybro]

thanks for being you @Beil

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