Coir Peat Question?

[Hudo]

Nah it’s good shit to saves running cal mag through it n rinsing it then ya gotta buy perlite I can’t be fkd with that so 45$ a bag n she’s done

It adds up when you do a run of 20× 30l pots i buy the 50l bags when I'm only running 4x50l pots though

 

[Hudo]

It makes the same amount as Bunnings stuff too, read through the Bunnings reviews they reckon that it only makes 70 litres..

Even with delivery on-top its still cheaper than Bunnings.

4 blocks of Bunnings = $106
4 blocks of Enfield + delivery = $80

Yeah it don't make 90.

 

[benn0]

i run bunnings coco coir, goes great guns when there are girls in them growing! just chucked the brick into a plastic container tote and filled up with water and left for an hour and would break it up every now and then. although the quality does vary

 

[MM2K6]

I had mine ordered already looks ok to me. Looking for next time
5 pots $28 PROPAGATION BRUNNINGS++15L COIR PEAT BRICK x 4. 1 x PROPAGATION BRUNNINGS++25L PERLITE $67
and took the advice to boil water then flush until clean, plants GG are settling in nicely

 

[MM2K6]

Opps cheaper just check invoice, just add extra 4 pots, I forgot too stoned 68.10 delivered!

9920206 1 EACH DELIVERY CHARGE++REGIONAL PARCEL 9.09 16.6% 9.09 0.91 10.00
0274287 1 EACH PROPAGATION BRUNNINGS++25L PERLITE 29.98
0274283 4 EACH PROPAGATION BRUNNINGS++15L COIR PEAT BRICK 23.92
0152854 1 EACH GROW POT PLASTIC++300X270MM BLACK^ 3.82 1.4% 4.20

 

[seeded]

I've used a ton of different brands of coco and used to avoid the chunky stuff, flushed the fuck out of it until the water ran clear, etc. and came to realise I was fucking myself over in the long run. Chunkier stuff made it so I needed less perlite, flushing it out so much removed the buffer and using finer grades of coco just lead to the pots getting clogged. I never bothered with the stuff with added nutrients though because I always wanted to be in control of them.

Back in the day I experimented with the ratio of coco to perlite going in 10% increments and found that 70% perlite and 30% coco to be the best ratio with the rate of growth, yield, etc. but it was a cunt to keep up with the watering since I was doing it by hand. In the end I settled on the opposite, 70% coco to 30% perlite, because it retained the water much longer and gave better results than going less perlite. That said since then I've gone 100% coco without issue especially when using the chunkier stuff from bunnings.

The best advice I could give would be to mostly expand the block with boiling water from a kettle or stove. Gnats are an absolute cunt and you'll get them without fail if you use cold water. The second best advice I can give is to gradually saturate the coco so that you have a very shallow pool of water beneath it to work with. 1cm-2cm is all you need and I would do so with 1/4 strength nutes with a bit of calmag added to it as well. The reason is that the coco will have it's own pH and it will absorb nutrients as well so if you give it a wee feed and give it time to equalize itself you can get an accurate reading of the pH and alter it as needed.

One of the biggest things things I learned along the way is that the coco will become acidic over time especially at the bottom of the pots. If you test the run off the pH can get super low and flushing will seemingly take forever to fix it even in a shower. You can counter this by giving it a watering with a super high pH and then flushing like normal or if you want to take a lazier option you can just increase the pH of your feeds to compensate as time goes on which is what I would actually recommend until major issues arise because you will have nutrients far more available at different pH ranges. The way I figured that out was thinking if I start at 5.8-6.2 and the pH changes I'm instantly moving away from that ideal but if I know for a fact the pH is going to drop and I start high it will move towards that ideal range and below it unlocking nutrients to their full potential as it goes. You can choose to lock nutrients out or unlock them, either way the pH is going to change and giving the pots a proper flush is an inevitability.

Sorry for the wall of text but I hope that helps.

 

[Hudo]

I've used a ton of different brands of coco and used to avoid the chunky stuff, flushed the fuck out of it until the water ran clear, etc. and came to realise I was fucking myself over in the long run. Chunkier stuff made it so I needed less perlite, flushing it out so much removed the buffer and using finer grades of coco just lead to the pots getting clogged. I never bothered with the stuff with added nutrients though because I always wanted to be in control of them.

Back in the day I experimented with the ratio of coco to perlite going in 10% increments and found that 70% perlite and 30% coco to be the best ratio with the rate of growth, yield, etc. but it was a cunt to keep up with the watering since I was doing it by hand. In the end I settled on the opposite, 70% coco to 30% perlite, because it retained the water much longer and gave better results than going less perlite. That said since then I've gone 100% coco without issue especially when using the chunkier stuff from bunnings.

The best advice I could give would be to mostly expand the block with boiling water from a kettle or stove. Gnats are an absolute cunt and you'll get them without fail if you use cold water. The second best advice I can give is to gradually saturate the coco so that you have a very shallow pool of water beneath it to work with. 1cm-2cm is all you need and I would do so with 1/4 strength nutes with a bit of calmag added to it as well. The reason is that the coco will have it's own pH and it will absorb nutrients as well so if you give it a wee feed and give it time to equalize itself you can get an accurate reading of the pH and alter it as needed.

One of the biggest things things I learned along the way is that the coco will become acidic over time especially at the bottom of the pots. If you test the run off the pH can get super low and flushing will seemingly take forever to fix it even in a shower. You can counter this by giving it a watering with a super high pH and then flushing like normal or if you want to take a lazier option you can just increase the pH of your feeds to compensate as time goes on which is what I would actually recommend until major issues arise because you will have nutrients far more available at different pH ranges. The way I figured that out was thinking if I start at 5.8-6.2 and the pH changes I'm instantly moving away from that ideal but if I know for a fact the pH is going to drop and I start high it will move towards that ideal range and below it unlocking nutrients to their full potential as it goes. You can choose to lock nutrients out or unlock them, either way the pH is going to change and giving the pots a proper flush is an inevitability.

This is what I've found in my set up. the PH lowers if you don't feed them enough. Like if you only water till you get slight run off or let it dry out to much the salt levels build up and make the PH Drop. For instance take notice of your water PH before you add your nutes then take a reading after adding, you will notice it's dropped. When you water you need about 20% run off so all the old nutrients are pushed out and replaced with new. Then your PH shift shouldn't be as noticeable. That's why I use hempy with coco so you have a res in the bottom and have a larger volume of nutes and its harder for it to shift. I water daily with 20% run off so the nutes are replaced and cycle starts again. This is my opinion for about coco and others will disagree. People seem to treat it like soil and less like a hydro medium. I think of it as a hydro medium and water the shit out of it with my grow style where others will do the opposite. It's all about dialing in a technique that works for you

 

[seeded]

This is what I've found in my set up. the PH lowers if you don't feed them enough. Like if you only water till you get slight run off or let it dry out to much the salt levels build up and make the PH Drop. For instance take notice of your water PH before you add your nutes then take a reading after adding, you will notice it's dropped. When you water you need about 20% run off so all the old nutrients are pushed out and replaced with new. Then your PH shift shouldn't be as noticeable. That's why I use hempy with coco so you have a res in the bottom and have a larger volume of nutes and its harder for it to shift. I water daily with 20% run off so the nutes are replaced and cycle starts again. This is my opinion for about coco and others will disagree. People seem to treat it like soil and less like a hydro medium. I think of it as a hydro medium and water the shit out of it with my grow style where others will do the opposite. It's all about dialing in a technique that works for you

What you're doing is ideal really. You're constantly refreshing the medium and forcing the older stuff out before anything can fuck up. People like myself that treat it like soil will save a fortune on nutes by comparison though.

 

[Hudo]

What you're doing is ideal really. You're constantly refreshing the medium and forcing the older stuff out before anything can fuck up. People like myself that treat it like soil will save a fortune on nutes by comparison though.

Yeah that's what I mean by dialing in your style. You dial in by adjusting the PH of your Nutrients. I do big grows of 2-4lb so 150 bucks worth of nutrients is not a factor.