Yaramila Complex

Beil

Curing
Community Member
User ID
3194
I use Yaramila Complex for everything in my garden (lawns, fruit trees, garden beds etc).
Is anyone familiar with it?
Is there any problem using it for the veg stage, outdoor in pots.
Specs in photo, but it's 12.5.15. 8s + micros.
Reccomended application is every 3 months, but I found when I grew hops in pots that the constant watering washed it away faster than when they were in the ground. So was going to do what I did with hops and do monthly applications. Figure by the time flowering comes about I can grab some low N fertiliser to swap over and the YM Complex will have been depleted.

Or is it better to use a liquid fertiliser and feed them every other day (that stuff got washed out almost instantly with the hops when watering every day in the heat).

I like this stuff because it has a healthy dose of the micros so they are taken care of.

See lots of stuff about organic fertiliser, especially for soil building/amendments.. I'm not really fussed about using organic unless there's actually a reason for the crop health/final product.
Cheers
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Porky

The Dwarf Hermie King
User ID
17
I use Yaramila Complex for everything in my garden (lawns, fruit trees, garden beds etc).
Is anyone familiar with it?
Is there any problem using it for the veg stage, outdoor in pots.
Specs in photo, but it's 12.5.15. 8s + micros.
Reccomended application is every 3 months, but I found when I grew hops in pots that the constant watering washed it away faster than when they were in the ground. So was going to do what I did with hops and do monthly applications. Figure by the time flowering comes about I can grab some low N fertiliser to swap over and the YM Complex will have been depleted.

Or is it better to use a liquid fertiliser and feed them every other day (that stuff got washed out almost instantly with the hops when watering every day in the heat).

I like this stuff because it has a healthy dose of the micros so they are taken care of.

See lots of stuff about organic fertiliser, especially for soil building/amendments.. I'm not really fussed about using organic unless there's actually a reason for the crop health/final product.
Cheers
View attachment 31055
Yeah that NPK is fine for cannabis!!
I'm assuming you will be growing in soil!
The only thing not in it which will be in soil if ya use soil is molybdenum but they need fuck all of anyway!
 

Aye Shroomer

Baked
User ID
85
Like most growers. We all go for the nutes range that’s cannabis marketed. But general ag based nutrient lines will work just as good.

Saying that I’ve really jumped onto the high powered organics line. Really happy with the results from my last grow and I’ll be using another one of their grow mediums next run.

I guess it’s just what you’re prepared to pay. And your bag will last you forever too
 

Aye Shroomer

Baked
User ID
85
I’d be concerned about the cadmium in that product ,,it’s bad even for growing tobacco ,,,
probably get toxic levels in your weed ,,
good way to fuck your kidneys.
Yeah wow.
I’m really fascinated but all the different macro and micro nutrients. Don’t really know much about cadmium. What is it?
 

Aye Shroomer

Baked
User ID
85


So I admit I don’t know much about anything 😆

Looking into Yara and it seems it’s like most big biz agrochemicals that’s totally opposite of what I’m looking at creating with my gardens.

I’ve based my first opinion on NTS fertilisers that I’ve seen in ag stores and are really great for the price. They work for fruits and veg so why wouldn’t they work for cannabis.

So @Beil i suppose it comes down to if you’ve been using that and it’s worked ok on your veggies great. And if your happy to use it on weed let us know how it goes.
 

R3za92

Baked
User ID
261


So I admit I don’t know much about anything 😆

Looking into Yara and it seems it’s like most big biz agrochemicals that’s totally opposite of what I’m looking at creating with my gardens.

I’ve based my first opinion on NTS fertilisers that I’ve seen in ag stores and are really great for the price. They work for fruits and veg so why wouldn’t they work for cannabis.

So @Beil i suppose it comes down to if you’ve been using that and it’s worked ok on your veggies great. And if your happy to use it on weed let us know how it goes.
End of the day the majority of salt based ferts are using the same 3-5 main ingredients that are only produced by a limited number of producers (less now that Russia isn’t contributing to global fertiliser production especially nitrates). Any of the yara gear that is marketed for use in food crops will be below the allowed limit of heavy metals including cadmium.

As for being a major contributor to climate change that’s would be because nearly all nitrate based fertilisers on the market are produced with natural gas. In the future this could be switched to renewables like solar and wind but that’s won’t be for a good 5-10 year+.

Nts is a great Aussie ag nutrient brand with some great science behind their products but would be buying some of their base ingredients like calcium nitrate etc from the likes of yara.
Yeah wow.
I’m really fascinated but all the different macro and micro nutrients. Don’t really know much about cadmium. What is it?
Cadmium is a heavy metal that bio accumulated similar to lead. It often has to be refined out of phosphate and sulfate mined nutrients.
 

Beil

Curing
Community Member
User ID
3194
I’d be concerned about the cadmium in that product ,,it’s bad even for growing tobacco ,,,
probably get toxic levels in your weed ,,
good way to fuck your kidneys.
Goanna have to look more into this. Did some scooping at work earlier, saw about the tobacco issue, which is relevant due to weed (generally) being combusted.

*didn't actually post this yesterday so I'll just continue *

Looking into cadmium and it does seem to pose risks, especially as cannabis is a hyperaccumulator of heavy metals, they have actually looked into to using cannabis ruderalis to 'clean' contaminated soils of heavy metals, but different varieties actually had vary degrees of accumulation based on pH etc, some completely opposite of each other, high vs low oh soil.

The Australian standard of maximim cadmium in fertiliser is 100mg kg/P, so I guess the 35mg in this is well below that. And if it's 35mg kg/P, with only 4.8% P in the product (if my calls are corrent, then it's... 1000x4.8%= 48g of P per kg fertiliser, so (35÷1000)x48= 1.68mg/kg of fertiliser.
Labelling the 35mg kg/P makes sense though as agriculture calculate total NPK loads on their soils, so it's easy to calculate total Cadmium from this if they're wanting to use say 100 kg of P/Hectare.

I did find some heavy metal analysis of RX Green Technology part A (USA) hydro nutes that had a level of 0.26mg/kg, so much less than the YM, but is also liquid which from reading tended to have a lower concentration.

All in all its given me something to think about, anyone who uses super phosphate runs the same risk of Cadmium exposure. And I think I'll continue researching into levels of other amendments such as blood & bone etc.
 

Beil

Curing
Community Member
User ID
3194
Like most growers. We all go for the nutes range that’s cannabis marketed. But general ag based nutrient lines will work just as good.

Saying that I’ve really jumped onto the high powered organics line. Really happy with the results from my last grow and I’ll be using another one of their grow mediums next run.

I guess it’s just what you’re prepared to pay. And your bag will last you forever too
What organic line have you used (or is 'high powered' literally in the name?

My 25kg bags usually lasted more than a year upto about 2, but since moving house a year ago with more garden space I think it'll just surpass a year. My lawns & garden beds have just about doubled and fruit trees have upped their numbers to 6 so there's a lot more hungry roots to feed lol.
 

Aye Shroomer

Baked
User ID
85
What organic line have you used (or is 'high powered' literally in the name?

My 25kg bags usually lasted more than a year upto about 2, but since moving house a year ago with more garden space I think it'll just surpass a year. My lawns & garden beds have just about doubled and fruit trees have upped their numbers to 6 so there's a lot more hungry roots to feed lol.
 

Beil

Curing
Community Member
User ID
3194
So that herb superb stuff has humic/fulvic as well as micro organisms. I like that it already has them in it. Humic/fulvic is on my list of things to add specifically in general to the garden, just never got to driving to the closest seller that does smaller bottles (I hate paying for delivery lol), it's like a 40 minute drive and work/family time when they're open makes it harder). The usual Seasol get used, but that's just kelp/microbes without the humic/fulvic :(.
I was planning on making my own soil, so the composition of their soil is interesting. I'm probably still going to use YM as it takes care of a lot of the micros aswell, with as much microbial activity and H/F as I can get in the soil first (it'll be cheaper to do a few pots than trying to treat the whole garden :/ ).
There's a local product called Seamungus that is pelletised that is basically solid seasol with humic and fulvic which is decently priced, would probably be a good amendment and cut the YM down so it isn't too hot, it's full of micros aswell, just the NPK is only 4-1-1.5. (TBH, I not sure why I have never bought it to spread around the garden FFS)
Best of both worlds, organic and synthetic.


Attachment: seamungus analysis.
 

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Aye Shroomer

Baked
User ID
85
Yeah there’s some interesting mixes he has.
I re amended my gro dirt lite with that herb superb and Stone Age. Just letting it sit and cook.

I’ve got half a bag of seamungus still along with rooster booster and gogo juice. I’ve used that for outside stuff. Also used it in my raspberry and blueberry planters

Actually grabbed some soil mix from a local landscaping company and mixed in mushroom and cow compost with the neutrog stuff, biochar and scoria rocks too.
I’m going to repot my zucchini in it together with some other veggies.
 

itchybro

Sultan Of Soil
User ID
31
yeah seasol is made from kelp but it's not a great version of it though
the heat used to make seasol isn't great for the end product imho

better to get dried kelp meal (Tasmanian Bull kelp from Tassie Durvillaea potatorum) & make your own kelp liquid
or from Easy as organics Kelp Meal , just need water , a jar with lid & 1.25 teaspoons per liter let sit for 24hrs with a shake of the jar several times over the 24hrs , after the 24hrs filter the kelp from the water & you have home made seasol
i use a 500ml jar & put as many teaspoons as i plan to use liters of water , then add the 500ml to the watering can or bucket of water the next day

as far as humic & fulvic acid go's just start a compost pile & extract your own
Dr Elaine Ingham Humic Acid Extract if you search around she talks about extracting humic & fulvic acid from compost
the dark chocolate color is the humic acid & the milk chocolate color is your fulvic acid

if your wanting micros basalt rock dust & kelp meal fed to your worm farm then use the castings (y)
 

R3za92

Baked
User ID
261
Goanna have to look more into this. Did some scooping at work earlier, saw about the tobacco issue, which is relevant due to weed (generally) being combusted.

*didn't actually post this yesterday so I'll just continue *

Looking into cadmium and it does seem to pose risks, especially as cannabis is a hyperaccumulator of heavy metals, they have actually looked into to using cannabis ruderalis to 'clean' contaminated soils of heavy metals, but different varieties actually had vary degrees of accumulation based on pH etc, some completely opposite of each other, high vs low oh soil.

The Australian standard of maximim cadmium in fertiliser is 100mg kg/P, so I guess the 35mg in this is well below that. And if it's 35mg kg/P, with only 4.8% P in the product (if my calls are corrent, then it's... 1000x4.8%= 48g of P per kg fertiliser, so (35÷1000)x48= 1.68mg/kg of fertiliser.
Labelling the 35mg kg/P makes sense though as agriculture calculate total NPK loads on their soils, so it's easy to calculate total Cadmium from this if they're wanting to use say 100 kg of P/Hectare.

I did find some heavy metal analysis of RX Green Technology part A (USA) hydro nutes that had a level of 0.26mg/kg, so much less than the YM, but is also liquid which from reading tended to have a lower concentration.

All in all its given me something to think about, anyone who uses super phosphate runs the same risk of Cadmium exposure. And I think I'll continue researching into levels of other amendments such as blood & bone etc.
Just find a soluble fert that doesn’t use super phos. Yarra will have one designed for hydroponics etc. there are plenty of others on the market. A common one in the non weed small scale hydro scene is the Campbell diamond special t and calcium nitrate which has been popularised by popular YouTuber hoocho
 

Beil

Curing
Community Member
User ID
3194
Just find a soluble fert that doesn’t use super phos. Yarra will have one designed for hydroponics etc. there are plenty of others on the market. A common one in the non weed small scale hydro scene is the Campbell diamond special t and calcium nitrate which has been popularised by popular YouTuber hoocho
The issue I found when looking into cadmium, is fertilisers generally (talking the common big green shed stuff that I looked at) only list P as citrate soluble/insoluble and water soluble... How is one to know if they DON'T use super phosphate? Will they literally say they don't?
 

Beil

Curing
Community Member
User ID
3194
Just find a soluble fert that doesn’t use super phos. Yarra will have one designed for hydroponics etc. there are plenty of others on the market. A common one in the non weed small scale hydro scene is the Campbell diamond special t and calcium nitrate which has been popularised by popular YouTuber hoocho
I can get Campbell's down the road from me, but I don't want 25kg of it... Or do I? Considering I'm thinking about changing up my whole fert regime for edible growth in my garden.

Noted 👍
 

R3za92

Baked
User ID
261
yeah seasol is made from kelp but it's not a great version of it though
the heat used to make seasol isn't great for the end product imho

Also the amount of sodium is fucking ridiculous.

I’ve been liking nts products so this will be the next kelp product I try. Tad expensive because 1kg minimum but it pretty concentrated

 

R3za92

Baked
User ID
261
I can get Campbell's down the road from me, but I don't want 25kg of it... Or do I? Considering I'm thinking about changing up my whole fert regime for edible growth in my garden.

Noted 👍

These guys sell smaller amounts if you want to try it first.
 

itchybro

Sultan Of Soil
User ID
31
Also the amount of sodium is fucking ridiculous.

I’ve been liking nts products so this will be the next kelp product I try. Tad expensive because 1kg minimum but it pretty concentrated

prob wouldn't be a bad idea to use it with there fulvic product Fast Fulvic
 
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